Learn how to fix a t-shirt with twisted seams. This annoying problem has a somewhat simple solution.
Hey y’all – today I’m going to show you how to fix a t shirt with twisted seams. Have you ever bought a t-shirt then realized the seams were twisting? Ugh, so annoying! I often relegate these tees to the give away pile since I hate constantly adjusting the seams back.
What Causes Twisted Seams In T Shirts?
Let’s review WHY your t-shirts get twisted, and why this affects so many store bought t-shirts. First, let’s review how knit fabric is made. Below you can see some knitting on needles. Knit fabric is formed from one thread pulled through a series of horizontal loops to create rows of columns of stitches.
You can see the newest stitch forming at the tip of the right needle in the image above. The knitter inserts the right needle in the loop of the stitch on the left needle and wraps the yarn around the right needle. Next they pull the yarn through the stitch in a new loop. The old stitch is pulled off the left needle and the process repeated across the row. Machine knit fabric is also formed from one thread pulled through a horizontal row of loops. But instead of needles, the thread loops on a knitting machine are held by hooks. Below you can see a close up image of machine knit fabric. In it, you can see the same rows and loops.
So when the side seams of a t-shirt are not cut in line with these vertical columns, that’s when the twisting happens. Washing usually reveals the issue. It’s not limited to cheap t shirts either. I’ve bought (and returned) expensive brand t shirts that this happened to. So, the moral of the story is for those of you making your own t shirts – knit grain is important! And if you’re buying, try to check for twist before you purchase.
The role of plies
Feel free to skip this section if you don’t want to get into the technical weeds. However, if you enjoy going behind the scenes you might find this interesting.
Another reason garments sewn from knit fabrics might twist has to do with spinning. I hand spun the yarn on the needles above. So let me explain a technical aspect of knit fabrics that is how the fibers used to make them are spun. In the knit fabric close up above you can see red and white threads twisted together to make the yarn that makes up the fabric. Each of these threads is a single ply. Thicker knit fabrics like this sweater knit contain thread made of multiple plies.
A single ply thread or yarn when knitted tends to twist in the same direction that the wheel was moving during spinning. This effect can be more pronounced on natural fibers like cotton and wool. So fibers spun with the wheel moving clockwise are called Z twist. With the wheel moving counter clockwise they are S twist. When you hand spin yarn, you typically spin with a Z twist. Then you ply 2 or more Z twist threads together with an S twist. The two spinning directions counterbalance each other so that the fabric created from this yarn doesn’t twist or bias.
Some manufacturers use single ply yarns to make fabric. Machines exist designed to knit in the round. These machines spiral yarn around and produce a tube of fabric instead of a flat sheet. They should move in the opposite direction from the S or Z twist of single ply thread. This serves to counteract the tendency of the single ply to want to twist.
But if you put single ply yarn in a flat knitting machine or a machine knitting in the round in the same direction as the ply, the fabric want to bias no matter how you try to cut it straight. If you have a t-shirt without side seams that still feels like it’s twisting on you, it might be a single ply that was knit in the round on the wrong machine.
Materials Needed For Fixing Twisted Seams
Regardless of why your shirt is twisted, the fix is the same. Here are the materials you’ll need:
- Sharp fabric scissors to cut the t-shirt
- A sewing machine that can do a zig zag stitch or other stretch stitch.
- Basic sewing notions – sewing needles, thread, pins, etc
Step By Step Instructions to Fixing Twisted Seams
If you have a twisted t-shirt and you don’t want to or can’t return it, you can fix the issue by cutting the shirt off grain to remove the twist. This fix makes your t-shirt tighter. However, there isn’t another way to correct what went wrong in the manufacturing. And you’ll have straight seams when you’re done. If you want to untwist and not lose width or make the shirt bigger, see this post.
You can see an overview of how I do this in the video below, which is also on YouTube here.
The first step is to lay the t shirt out flat, matching the shoulder seams. You want the side seam twist evident. Then, cut up the side seam through the sleeve on the shorter side of the seam. In other words, cut to the side of the seam that you can see. Don’t cut the side that wraps around to the opposite side of the tee.
After you cut the seam, flip the t-shirt over, keeping it flat. Cut off the excess fabric so that the raw edges of the t shirt at the side seam are now even. Repeat this process on the other side of the t shirt.
Fold the t-shirt in half making sure to center any graphics. Check that the side seams are now even. You may have to trim a little more to get here.
Finally, fold the shirt right sides together. Re-sew the sides of the shirt and underarm seams using a stretch stitch.
And voila – an untwisted shirt!
