What’s the Project? Walking into a fabric store can be intimidating with all of those different types of fabric. Learn to understand what they are & how to navigate them.
If you’re wanting to learn to sew or already know how but you’re looking for some tips, the fabric is probably something that makes you drool. There’s just something pretty great about piles and bolts of pretty, untouched fabric. It gives you fun ideas for projects and there’s something that makes you want to buy it all. Am I right?
But that fabric store can be pretty confusing with all of the different types of fabric and rows and rows of fabric bolts. The large stores are wonderful because they have so many options, but they can also be very intimidating. I’ve had readers email quite a few times with questions about different types of fabric. Let’s talk about how to buy fabric and what you’re looking at when you walk through that fabric store so that you can worry less about what it is that you’re buying and more about sewing that fun new project!
This tutorial will break down different types of fabric and what you need for different projects. Everything from the fancy stuff like satin fabrics for things like dresses to knit fabrics for kids’ clothes, and everything else that the fabric store is packed with. It’s all here!
A Beginner’s Guide to Understanding Different Types of Fabric:
You walk into your fabric store and you will see rows and rows, bolts and bolts of fabric. There are many different types, so it can be really confusing. What are they all and what do they mean? Let’s take a little tour of the fabric store.
First, here are a few terms that might be helpful. You might see these in patterns or instructions, so hopefully this will help:
- Garment is often used to describe clothing in the sewing world.
- Textile basically just means fabric.
- Synthetic fabrics are made from man-made materials rather than natural fibers like cotton. Some examples of synthetic fabrics are polyester, acrylic, nylon, rayon, etc.
- Woven fabric includes any fabric that is made by weaving threads together. This might include chiffon, crepe, denim, linen, satin and silk.
Understanding the Fabric Store:
Cotton:
Typically the most prevalent fabric is going to be your basic cotton, also sometimes called calico in the fabric world. Along at least one wall of the store you are likely to see fabrics arranged by color something like this:
Kind of pretty looking isn’t it? Those are arranged like that for the quilter’s sake, so that they can easily find, for example, a purple to go into the quilt they are making. Often these calico fabrics will have small all-over prints like dainty little flowers, but you can see that some of them have more bold prints like large polka dots. At the close end, you can also see solid-colored fabric.
Throughout the store on shelves, you will probably find many more cottons in a variety of styles. You may find a baby section, a designer fabric section, seasonal prints, or others. Just browse for what you are looking for. These are going to be great fabrics for many of your beginner sewing projects like bags, aprons, quilts and blankets and so many, many things. This type of fabric makes up probably at least 75% of my collection. It’s texture makes it easy to work with.
Fleece:
On another wall of the store, you are likely to find fleece and other plush fabrics typically used for blankets, pajamas, and other cozy things. These fabrics will also be more expensive, so make sure to bring a coupon. (All the major chains have printable coupons if you just google it.) Fleece is a little stretchier and a little bit bulky, so it could be a little bit harder to sew on, but it’s not too bad.
Specialty Fabrics:
An overlook of the rest of the store might show you something like this. You can see lots of different types of fabric indicated by the various signs.
You’ll see shelves and shelves of fabric and at the top a sign indicating what type of fabric you are seeing. Shown above are specialty-type fabrics that you would use for fancy dresses like evening gowns or wedding dresses, other types of clothing like fancy blouses, scarves and special occasions like wedding gowns. These fabrics might include crepe fabric, silks or satin fabrics, rayon or velvet, or even leather, suede, wool, polyester, chiffon fabric, or linen.
Let me give you a few pointers in regard to sewing with those fabrics.
- The more lightweight fabric is, the trickier it is to sew with.
- Also if it’s stretchy or slippery, it’s also going to be a little bit tricky to sew with and you’re going to need LOTS of pins to keep everything where you want it.
- Others, like leather or suede, are friendly to sew on. Sometimes some of these types of fabric will come with a thin sheet of tissue-like paper on them though because they can get sticky.
- Basically, if you are a beginner sewer, stick with cotton if you can before you try on these because they can be pretty tricky.
Home Decor and Upholstery:
A few other, possibly more hidden parts of the store include home decor fabrics-typically on large rolls that are very wide:
These can be very pricey but can also be really fun! They are going to be a little thicker than your cottons and others, but fairly easy to sew on.
Ribbon:
In still another section you will find trims like ribbon and lace that you can buy by the yard. Just take them up to the cutting counter just like any fabric and have them cut it for you:
Lining:
And there will be a corner with interfacing:
This is used for lining projects and there are a number of different types. Some will adhere to your fabric (the back of your fabric) when you iron it. Some you’ll just stich into place. Some is thick and some is lightweight. Try to figure out what your pattern calls for before you hit this section.
Notions:
And then the rest of the store will be filled with things like thread and notions and any other sewing supplies that you might need:
OK, so you browse all of the different types of fabric and notions and find something you want. Now what?
Understanding How to Buy Fabric:
First of all, take notice of the end of the bolt. You are going to find information there like the width of the fabric, (this one is typical at about 44″ wide but some fabrics will be wider-like 60″), the type of fabric, washing instructions, and pricing:
Take your fabric or trim or interfacing up to the cutting counter and tell them how much you need. Typically the smallest cut they will make is 1/8th of a yard and then you can do any increments beyond that. Try to figure out ahead of time how much you are going to need.
They’ll cut it for you and then you will take it, along with a ticket they will give you, up to the register to pay. (Remember your coupons!)
Shopping Online for Fabric:
Now, if you are shopping online it’s similar, but a little different since you are browsing online. Here’s a favorite online fabric store of mine.
Just make sure that you are taking note of the different types of fabric in the descriptions before you put them in your shopping cart so that you are sure you are getting what you actually need.
They also offer accessories like ribbons and trims and some notions online as well.
Different Types of Fabrics:
Let’s have a quick overview of the types of fabric you will find at the store.
Cottons or Calicos: 100% cotton fabrics (that will probably shrink and ideally should be pre-washed) and are going to be very plentiful at most stores. Available in many different styles including designer fabrics with bold and trendy prints, baby fabrics, quilting fabrics, seasonal fabrics, and lots more. Use: most basic projects like bags, aprons, quilts, items for around your home, and many more.
Heavyweight fabrics like duck, canvas, and denim: These will be heavier thicker than your basic cotton calicos, and more sturdy, so they will hold up longer, making them great options for outdoor projects or things that need a little weight to them. Use: Can be great for things like throw pillows, outdoorsy type things, jeans, tote bags, or anything else you want a heavier weight for.
Plush {like fleece and minky}: Soft and cozy and perfect for things like blankets and pajamas or all things baby. They will be a little more expensive. They may pill a little after washing. Some will have a nap to them as well which you will need to be mindful of while sewing. Use: Perfect for baby blankets or any blankets really, pajamas, stuffed animals or anything that needs to be snuggly.
Flannel: Usually you will find a flannel section with lots of baby prints as well as other prints. It won’t be nearly as thick as the fleece, it’s more like a basic cotton, but one side of it will be soft to the touch. Soft and snuggly but will most definitely shrink and pill after it’s washed a few times. Use: Pajamas, blankets, things that you want to be soft but not bulky.
Special Occasion Fabrics: You will find a section with things like satin (soft and silky), tulle (like netting), chiffon, nylon, and silks. These are usually used for dresses and other fancy things. One warning-they are quite a bit harder to sew on than regular cotton and will take some practice because they are so slippery. Use: special occasions, dresses, clothing.
Jersey Fabric or Knits: Soft and stretchy like a t-shirt. Also can be a little harder to sew on because they stretch, but not too difficult. they often come in wider sizes than a typical bolt of fabric so pay attention to that. You may need less fabric because of this. For more details on types of knits (because they vary, i.e., rib knits have alternating raised rows) see my ebook. Use: skirts, shirts, and other apparel. Spandex is similar because it’s stretchy but it also slippery.
Home Decor: On large rolls (see above), wider and more expensive than other fabrics but also much higher quality so it will hold up better and also won’t let light through (if it’s curtains for example) as easily. Use: curtains, rugs, pillows.
OK, what do you think? You ready to go fabric shopping now?
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